19 January 2010

Evisu NO13

No13Left is a close reproduction of the early denim used by Lee from the 1910s onwards. It is a left hand twill cloth, which is identifiable by the diagonal twill lines, which run from top-left to bottom-right. Unlike normal right hand twill denim, which is the opposite, left hand twill denim wears down even softer than its’ right hand equivalent. No13Left is green caste indigo, and has mismatched selvage: one side is plain white, and the other side has a single warp thread of indigo woven into it, staying true to the specifications of the original Lee version. Lastly, jeans cut from No13Left denim have the leather patch sewn on the left side of the waistband.

18 January 2010

evisu NO4

No4 is another brand-new denim specially developed for the Evisu Heritage Spring 2009 collection. The denim is woven from open-end yarn, with no slubs where the yarns are knotted together during weaving. Open-end yarn denim has a smoother, flatter surface than ring-spun denim. Like all Evisu Heritage denim, No4 is woven on half-width shuttle looms. Shuttle looms use a singe continuous weft yarn which passes backwards and forwards across the warp threads, making a clean woven selvage, unlike modern projectile looms, which shoot the weft yarns across the warp one by one. No4 denim is woven with a classic redline selvage.

17 January 2010

Evisu NO3

No3 is the original famous Evisu Heritage selvage denim, previously known as D85. No3 denim is woven from unbleached ‘mother cotton’, and the warp is rope dyed with indigo to an extremely deep blue, almost black tone. Rope dyeing is so-called because the cotton yarn is twisted into a ‘rope’ which is dipped into a vat of indigo before being brought up high to the roof of a dye-house, allowing the unstable indigo compounds to oxidise on the cotton, turning it from a murky brown-green color to the deep intense blue of fine selvage denim. No3 can be recognized by the unusual ‘rising’ sun red and white selvage.

16 January 2010

Evisu NO2

No2 denim is identical to No1Special, but sanforized. Woven in Osaka Japan on half-width shuttle looms with signature pink selvage. No2 is a mid-to heavy-weight 13.7 oz denim and has a deep blue tone with a very slight red caste. The sanforization process was invented by Sanford Cluett in 1933 and involves passing the unfinished cloth through heated rubber rollers, causing the fibers to shrink and stretching the fabric into a stable state, which will not alter with washing. Sanforizing also prevents the jeans from skewing (twisting). Lastly, the singeing process takes off the hairy surface: before 1933, all denim was unsanforized (like our No1Special).

15 January 2010


No1Special is unsanforized japanese selvage denim woven in Osaka by Kaihara Corps Ltd. Unsanforized denim is the most authentic cloth, as used on the very earliest jeans. It has a slightly hairy surface and the warp and weft yarns are quite loose. When it is first washed, the yarn fibers will contract, making the denim much tighter, and causing the garment to shrink. Another effect will be leg twist or skewing. Skewed legs are a sure sign of true vintage jeans. No1Special is cut in shrink-to-fit blocks (e.g. 0001stf), so you should buy your normal size for preshrunk jeans and hot soak them before wearing. We recommend soaking them at one of the many hot springs about 100 km south of Osaka, but if that’s not possible, a warm bathtub soak and an overflowing cup of sake for yourself will suffice.

14 January 2010

Spring 2009 Heritage Denims

Every year, we call the latest iteration of our Deluxe jeans “The Finest Jeans Ever Made”. While we often make bold statements, we challenge you to find a better pair of jeans. While other companies copy the details we brought back to the denim industry (like two tone stitching or the use of selvage): we never stop striving to make our denim the best. Last year some of our jeans featured leather rivet washers, natural indigo, silk & supima cotton blended denim, and bluff seams.

The importance of craftsmanship within Japan’s culture is astonishing. The utmost quality is strived for and achieved through a painstaking attention to detail. We want our garments to ultimately reflect this ethos: so we work closely with our Japanese mills to realize our vision.

This year, we’re releasing 5 new Heritage denims – each with their own unique set of characteristics and details. Staying true to traditional Japanese denim-dyeing methods and a vintage sensibility, our Spring 09 denim will feature red-caste denim; while our Fall 09 collection will feature primarily green-cast denim. Each classification of denim is indicated by a stamped number (No.1, No.2, etc.) on the leather patches; instead of mentioning our internal fabric codes like we did in the past; such as D85.

First up, we’ve relaunched our core No1Special and No2 denims. The Japanese selvage cloth is identical in both styles but while No2 has been preshrunk, No1Special is unsanforized, meaning that it will shrink down 2 inches in the waist after a wash – causing the fabric to become much tighter and forming a true vintage ‘leg twist’. We’ve also reintroduced a Left-Hand Twill denim (No13Left) to commemorate the famous Lee left hand twill jeans. Next, No3 denim is our classic D85 ‘Rising-Sun’ selvage renamed, which is woven from unbleached ‘mother cotton’ – giving it a brownish red shade in the weft and a deep blue-black tone in the semi-slub, rope dyed warp. In one case (No4), we’re using an open-yarn denim, instead of the ringspun yarn we use in all our other denim, which wears differently and has an interesting ‘spotty’ fading pattern, after a few months. Finally, in Autumn/Winter 2009 we’ll also be debuting an exotic, sulphur rope-dyed ringspun black selvage denim, No2Black. So many choices and only one pair of legs.

All our fabrics are custom-made to our exact specifications, so you won’t see them from another company. Thankfully our mills share our maniacal vision!

Since we want to educate aspiring ‘denim-heads’ and seasoned vets alike about our new denim designations, we’ve attached cloth information labels (removable of course) to our leather patches. We hope you enjoy the new Heritage denim as much as we do.

13 January 2010

How to Spot Fake Evisu Jeans

First under no circumstances should the selvedge on any Evisu jeans be missing. That is the stitching on the inside along the lining of the pants leg. Personally the selvedge is the best part of the jeans. I think if you rolll your jean up, it looks awsome to show out ur selvedges or the double stitch out. All evisu jeans spell the word "jeans" as "Genes". *NOT ALL EVISU COMES WITH A BAG* If you purchase an Evisu jean you should make sure that it comes with the bag and that the tags are there. Although that doesn’t necessarily determine whether or not the product is fake but with out it you are skeptical. It is possible that someone is selling fake evisu with a real bag. Easily they purchased a real bag separately… they need backup so their product can look more authentic.

There are many scammers and you should be aware. Yes, yes Evisu make shorts, and they do make shorts with the diacock (or the gulls) style on the back, but it's very rare to find thoes, even if you find it, it's going to cost you mad bills to buy thoes. All Evisu jeans have double stitched inseams or selvedge.

Evisu comes in three different qualities. No.1 is the best denim Evisu will make which is at a heavy cost. No.2 is in the middle between No.1 and No.3. No.3 is the lowest quality jeans. Evisu sometimes don’t even have a number on the back. Which doesn’t mean it is fake. Thoes don't have number are just not as expensive as the numbered one, and thoes are easier to get. You can see the numbers on the tag/brown patch on the back right side. Evisu jeans do have two tags. One is the tag that is attached to the right rear pocket and the other one is found on the waist on the back left side of the jean with the tag that says "Evisu Genes" and it has a picture of a man painting the evisu logo on a pair of jeans.*NOT ALL EVISU HAVE THIS TAG, AS I RECALL ONLY THE NUMBERED EVISU HAVE TWO TAGS ON THE OUTSIDE WRIST.* Also on that tag (on the inside of the jean) there are some pointers on how to spot fake evisu jeans.

The most noticeable ones are the Evisu jeans with weird looking pockets. When you flip over the bottom pants leg to see the selvedge….THERE IS NONE. Yea it may look catchy, interesting but they are not real.
The only real Evisu known to man without the selvedge on the inside is the different kind of cheap made Evisu Eu-Ed (European Edition). There are the types of Evisu which do not have sevledge on the inside (They retail for about $200/£130) . Seen some and they can all be bought from real shops in the UK and in stores like Urban Oufitter.

The buttons of Evisu jeans all say Evisu and the back should have the evisu gull. If you happen to see one with the godhead/china man then it is fake. At the corner of the pockets there is a ribbon, and it must say “evisu” on them outside and inside. Evisu jeans for men all must come with 4 or 5 buttons so if you see one with a zipper then it is most likely fake, but I have seem one with a zipper, but its a sample so seeing a zipper evisu is pretty darn RARE.

Evisu jeans normally should have yellow and orange stitching. It doesn’t matter if someone is selling Evisu jeans for a high price it still can be fake, I personally saw one. I had never bought anything fake and if you follow this guide you wouldn’t either.

Evisu along with every other important denim jeans come in certain fit. Boot cut, Flair, Baggy, Light Flair, Skater, Classic, Relaxed…therer are a lot.

Here are some little tips for thoes if you who doesnt like to read ^^:
1) Evisu Genes all have 4-5 buttons
2) The selvedge must be shown in pictures when one is selling Evisu Genes.
3) The Evisu sign/gulls must be in between the two double stitching.
4) Diacock (or gull) Evisu jean shorts is VERY RARE AND EXPENSIVE.
5) Always check a seller’s feedback to see his activities and if he/she is trusted.

  1. Step 1

    Examine the material's quality. Evisu jeans are made of premium denim. They will feel durable and high-quality. If the jeans in question feel flimsy or cheap, they are probably not authentic.

  2. Step 2

    Inspect the inseams. Evisu jeans always have double-stitched inseams. If the jeans have single-stitched inseams, they are fake.

  3. Step 3

    Look at the label. True Evisu jeans will always say "Evisu Genes" on the label. They're never labeled "Evisu Jeans."

  4. Step 4

    Check every button on the jeans. Each one should have "Evisu" on it. If any of the buttons are blank or feature another design, you are likely dealing with phony jeans.

  5. Step 5

    Study the stitching. As a designer product, Evisu jeans feature fine craftsmanship. The stitching should be straight, strong and neat. If the stitching is crooked, sloppy or uneven, the jeans are probably not authentic.

  6. Step 6

    View the interior labels closely. On authentic jeans, the label should be bright and sharp. Oftentimes, phony Evisu jeans have labels that are faded, resembling a photocopy rather than the real thing. Authentic Evisu jeans also feature silver threading along the sides of the label.

  7. Step 7

    Compare a photo of the jeans in question with a photo of authentic Evisu jeans, preferably from the company's website. If you see dissimilarities between the two photos, you are undoubtedly dealing with fake jeans.

Hope you guys will found this guide helpful.

Fake Or Real Evisu Jeans?

Evisu Guide for Real of Fake Evisu Jean(genes)

The GullsFAKE - Not aligned with the bottom seam. Does not overlap the vertical seams.

REAL - The gulls touch the bottom seam in three points and overlap the vertical seams.

The Leather Tag FAKE - Crooked stitches that touch the design.Lot number and size number are the same color.

REAL - Straight stitches that do not touch the designs.Lot number and size number should not be the same color as design.

The SelvedgeFAKE - Stitching on both sides.

REAL - Stitching runs only through the middle.

The Inside TagFAKE - Less than 1 1/2 inch long, no silver thread, faded design.

REAL - 1 3/4 inch long, silver thread above the size, sharp design.

The Paper TagFAKE - Looks like a photocopy.

REAL - Sharp, bright colors.

Since there are so many dishonest people all over the web pushing cheap imitations you are probably thinking that it is impossible to buy an authentic pair of designer denim at a discount. Do not loose hope! By using the information found on this website and with a little bit of luck, you can own a pair of real Evisu Jeans for next to nothing.

If you still require assistance, you can leave a comment below and I will try my best to validate a pair for you.

thanks to: http://www.denimdigest.com/fake-or-real-evisu-jeans/2008/03/06/?cp=3



How do you identify fake EVISU jeans? Spotting fake EVISU.Evisu jeans - how to tell real from fake?.How can you spot fake Evisu? Here is a few guide and picture how to spot a counterfit EVISU.This guide will be update from time to time-there's a lot of GENUINE and FAKE EVISU details out there and i didn't have all of them.

Be aware of a fake China,Hong Kong,Korea and Thailand EVISU because sometimes they did a lot better detail on their counterfit product nowdays with fake bag,fake box,fake label,fake certificate of authentication-all details like original!!(China do produce genuine EVISU under licence but NOT Thailand).Buy from authorised dealer/seller.If you buy from Ebay,make sure you ask the seller for a detail picture(see example)If the seller claim they are selling genuine EVISU with receipt etc.

PLEASE DON'T BELIEVE THAT before you ask them for a detail picture and verify the authentication.If you still confuse,do not hesitate to email me with your EVISU picture(please follow the example pictures)I'll try to help you to identify your EVISU the best i can.

Please share this information with others and leave a comment to improve this guide.

Evisu Guides for Genuine EVISU jeans and jacket patch

Evisu Guides for FAKE EVISU jeans and jacket patch

Evisu Guides for Painted gull.

Evisu Guides for Care tag GENUINE and FAKE -jeans and jacket

Evisu Guides for Inside leg stitching (Inseam)

Evisu Guides for Inside leg stitching (Outseam)

Evisu Guides for Outside rivet

Evisu Guides for Outside rivet

Evisu Guides for Pocket printing-inside

Evisu Guides for Fake back rivet

inside rivet

Evisu Guides for Fake button

Evisu Guides for Jacket button and stitching detail

Evisu Guides for Jacket button and stitching detail

Evisu Guides for A few example of genuine selvedge

Evisu Guides for A few example of genuine selvedge

thanks to : Mac (email: mmcallistermizy@yahoo.com )
Copyright © 2010 Created by: kojoe2kill